Au Maroc! Photo blog!

At the bus stop headed on our journey. The whitest, bluest eyed people soon to be in Morocco.

The terrace above our riad in Fes. Was a nice view downhill looking into the ancient medina of Fes. The medina, Fes-el-Bali is considered one of the largest car free urban areas  and a UNESCO World Heritage sit with narrow alleys and winding streets that are extremely difficult to navigate. I suggest getting a guide if you ever visit. Nevertheless, the medina is an experience itself and what it lacks in comfort, it makes up for in the smells (horrible and amazing both), local Berbers with their donkeys and carts, artisans,  friendly (maybe too friendly?) natives, and all around sights and sounds that are unfamiliar to the western world.

Of course they want you to smile. It seemed like every smile or eye contact you make with a local, there were two or three trying to sell you something immediately following. So go ahead and smile, but be ready to tell someone that you're not interested. 

As mentioned before with the Berbers and their donkeys. They would be seen all throughout the day making their rounds. Yes, I think all the donkeys seemed this lonely and miserable. We would see them tied up in the countryside by themselves and no caretaker in sight. A definite sign that animals are not greatly respected all over the world still. 

A stand with figs and local nuts and berries. 

This is the blue pottery souq in Fes. Beautifully crafted pottery and a pretty cool location that we completely stubbled upon. You find yourself winding through the medina seeing the same shops over and over, then you take a turn and see this. Its pretty cool. 

After Fes, we took a taxi ride through the Middle Atlas mountains of Morocco. This a Berber city that we passed along the way. We experienced some major fog that hinder what would have been an even more incredible ride. Needless to say, traveling in the winter is an obstacle all over the world. We had great company on our ride from our chauffeur, Youssef, and the chauffeur-in-training, Zacharie. They are both Muslims and natives of Fes. Elodie has a gift of warmth and kindness with strangers that I dont have. We learned a lot about their personal lives and their families on our 7 and 1/2 hour drive and that really gave us something more to appreciate than just the sights and sounds of tourism. Overall, a great experience will the cab drivers and escorts that we hired. 

A photo from le Jardin Majorelle in Marrakesh.  The second city that we visited in Morocco was Marrakesh and it is likely the most touristy city in the country. Very cool experience again. This garden was bought by Yves Saint Laurent and, after his death, it became a memorial to him. It is beautiful with amazing plants from all over the world complimented by the design and the colors as seen here.

Elod with her chameau. We saw these cats on our way to Essaouira for the day. 

Mandarines, oranges, and grapefruit were everywhere and I liked this guys style with the orange peels hanging down the stand. 

Tons of stray cats and dogs around Morocco. The cats seemed well enough fed and groomed, but nevertheless its sad to see them on the streets in the rain. This guy was chillin back and forth from the sun to the shade. Not a bad view of Essaouira and the Atlantic Ocean either. Modern day Essaouira was designed by a hired French architect in the 18th century and closely resembles Saint Malo in Brittany, France. And its true that there is a great resemblence. Castles built alongside the sea, tough to beat.

Common sight in Marrakesh. Spices, crafts, sweets, tea, soap and other products for hygiene and make-up. I couldn't tell you how it all works, but its organic and its all Moroccan made and cheap.

Our chef showing Elodie how to make their famous mint tea. Its a process new to me and the result is something very delicious and very sweet. Lots of sugar and mint leaves. We had at least three stops for tea a day.

The famous Djema el-Fna in Marrakesh. If you make a trip to Morocco, its likely you'll go to Marrakesh and if so, its 100% that you'll go to this market. Its a huge open space that you need when you're suffocating in the narrow passages of the medina. Filled with people from all over the world doing whatever they want. Snake-handlers to monkey-handlers to the artisans to street performers to Henna artists to food stands to Berber carpet dealers to magic lamp dealers (which seems like a steal if you ask me). We spent our evenings watching Djema el-Fna grow and become a giant theater, filled with people trying to earn a few dirham (Moroccan currency).

Berber carpet shop. Once again, a steal if you ask me. I mean, you're getting a magic carpet. Just watch Aladdin if you need a recommendation. 

 

Elod and her two best friends, aka the beginner of her hatred for monkeys. "A real shame," says Abu.

Of course, Morocco being a francophone country, there has to be at least one Stade Rennais supporter. 

Just some local Berber ladies working their argans and turning what were nuts in a tree that a goat ate and pooped out and grinding them into an oil for women to put on their face and use to cook our meat with. The one showing all that hair is really pompous too.

My favorite place. Café des épices. Had some good tea there and from the window, you really get to watch it all unfold. Spent some good hours watching a couple old ladies wheel and deal their beanie hats.

An example of two of the tajines we had. Mine on the left was with fish and Elodie's with chicken. Highlight of the trip was the amazing meals we had. We tried just about everything and came away full and content. 

To sum the trip up. We experienced a culture that can be judged several different ways. I'd like to think that we did a good job learning as well as touring. The Islamic culture itself is something with which we were largely unfamiliar. From the 530am call to prayer by the muezzin and the subsequent 5 calls throughout the day to the ancient puzzles of medinas and to the way the people dress, it not hard to experience some culture shock. Its something we handled by trying to understand and also by trying to avoid situations that made us uncomfortable. We met some great strangers that helped us greatly along the way. We met some that creeped us out pretty good. We learned a little about a how a country, who's people have an avg income of 3,000 a year, gets through the days. And its no longer a surprise to me that they are well fed, content with their lives, and are very proud of who they are. I look forward to another adventure there as the country offers a lot to the outside world. From the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean, to hiking and trail walking through the Atlas Mountains, and to overnight camel treks through the Sahara Desert, there's a cool world there to explore.

Mon Noël français

A little delayed, but I am here now to give some updates to the many adventures I have had over the past month or so. I will start with what was a french Christmas spent in a little town called L'Hermitage. At the Busnel family residence, I was welcomed like I was a Busnelian prince (kisses from the females, jabs in the rib from the males) and the hospitality would have ratings above five on yelp. Madame Martine (Titine d'amour ;) ) is Elodie's mom and Alain her father. In a continuing effort, I will try to show my appreciation for what they do and have done for me.

So before I arrived in France last August, I had already made the decision to bypass a Christmas and a Thanksgiving with my family back home. I have an amazing and a large family, filled with loving parents, grandparents, brothers, sister, nephew, cousins, boyfriends, girlfriends, aunts, uncles, etc. It goes with out saying, however I will, that I am thankful and cherishing of all our times together and the futures ones to be spent. However, I wanted to make a commitment and dedicate it to new experiences and ones with a special someone, a girl who makes me proud everyday.

Virginie, moi, Elodie, Kévin, Eva, Alain, Martine

This is all of us, excluding the bebe Alexis! When Vivi's boyfriend, JP had arrived, we became quite a handful of frenchies and one american at the dinner table. Much of the festivities are the same as what I have done before back home, but nevertheless I will regale you all with my Christmas tale.

Twas the night before Christmas, all through the house. Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse. The stockings were hung by the chimney with care, in hopes that St. Nicholas soon would be there. Yes, he even makes the journey to France ;) and the scholar in me must reference the previous lines to Clement Clarke Moore in his poem, "A Visit from St. Nicholas."  

Evidence of said stockings and chimney (notice Jay :) )

Ok, ok. Back to business. So the night before Christmas we went to mass. They are Catholic so this was a new experience but one that was very similar to old ones. Once again, I didn't understand much of what the guy in front was saying, I sang poorly but proudly, and I was surrounded by the whole town dressed in their best. Afterwards we were to begin our very lovely dinner. The Busnels (I cant speak for all of France, as Im sure its different) have a tradition of having a large and lovely spread of seafood for special occasions like this. If I was a good boy, I would remember all the names in french but I might cheat and use a translator for them. It was all very new to me, but I dove in and found myself a little drunk from the wine and also surprised at how delicious it all was. 

We have oysters (huitres) on the bottom left, huge fan. Then prawns (idk translation, grosses crevettes?) and shrimp (crevettes), crab claws (crab), and lastly the bulot (whelk in english?). Bulot is like a snail that lives in the sea. They're semi big, like an inch or two in diameter. Mama Busnel made a vinaigrette for the oysters and we used mayo for the shrimp, crab, and bulot. It was a process to eat it all as you had to rip the heads off the shrimp and then I am no pro with the crab. But it was fun and we talked and ate our dinner and also had another dinner afterwards consisting of potatoes, veggies and steak. It was a lot of food, but so much fun to eat and to listen to the frenchies around the table. I've improved my french enough that I can understand and contribute, which of course is so much more enjoyable!

On Christmas day, the kids and I all had an exchange. I got lovely presents from everyone and was so happy to be taken care of like family. Of course, homesickness sank in a little over the holidays, although I cant say that it stayed very long because I was quickly given reasons to forget it. For lunch of Christmas, we had the leftovers from the seafood the night before. Still delish too.

That is a basic summary of my Christmas, it is important to me to show how important family is and how we can all find it wherever we may be. I am very lucky to have been so welcomed and to have a family here that looks after me and of course everyone back home whom I care for. The support I get from everywhere is what motivates me everyday to do my best and to take full advantage of seemingly small opportunities. From my beginning stages of deciding to move to France til the unknown end, I thank you all.

Future blog posts will be here shortly as I have had a busy 2014. I welcomed my mom and Lane to France as you've seen from the pictures on FB. We spent about 10 days together that we all wished could've dragged on forever and I was so proud to have them here. Shortly thereafter, I also spent a week in Morocco with Elodie. My week in Morocco will posted soon as we experienced a culture unlike any I have seen and it really makes an impression on you.

Apparently its not too late in France to people a Happy New Year, so I am doing it now. Have a great 2014!

Some Reflections

Une soiree chinoise. I have a Chinese classmate that lives in my building and we had been talking about having dinner together for quite some time. One afternoon, her and another Chinese classmate came to my apartment to invite me to an evening with them (une soiree). I showed up only expecting to have dinner and to leave shortly thereafter, but much to my surprise and satisfaction, I had spent a large majority of my evening there. We were 6 total, two Chinese girls who spoke only french and chinese, and three Chinese guys who spoke only chinese and english. They were so happy to have me and we spent a nice evening talking and learning about each others history and about our individual cultures. We made chinese dumplings and they taught me a french card game. We discussed how are lives differ from the french and also each other.

I learned from one whom is from the northern part of China, near Russia, about his regions love of snow. He really misses the snow and the cold, its around 20 below Celsius there now! They have many outdoor activities during these times, from sporting events (skiing, cross country and alpine, ice-skating, etc) to creating art in the snow/ice. They create sculptures like we put up ornaments during Christmas time. He said they like to make animals or buildings (putting lights inside them so they glow at night!) and talked about a big competition with his school. He said the foreigners oftentimes win, something I found entertaining. He was talking about Bangladeshi-ans who are absolutely out of their element in the cold, but really love to make the art and dive into the culture there.

It was a great experience and one I know we will try to duplicate. I found myself smiling often and realizing how well we could all communicate in our own foreign tongues. My french really is becoming sufficient and although I am constantly upset because I want to improve, I can't help but tell myself (occasionally) that I have really found some success in it.

I haven't come to the realization more so than now that we are always caught up in our own lives. We are thinking about how we are going to get through our days, what we're going to eat later, or how we look and are being perceived by everyone else. I guess I can only assume what everyone else is going through, but I know I fall under these circumstances far too often. Since I have been taking classes here, I have met people from, seriously, everywhere. You get to know some more than others, but through the course of a semester you find little details about everyone. For example, there is a girl from Ukraine, she is very pretty with hair down to her waist. She has a pretty accent, but one that hasn't translated well into french, yet. I've noticed that she studies hard and does well, except when she speaks (the accent and the pressure of an entire class that's listening). Well I find out she's married and wants to live in France. She doesn't plan to work, but instead she writes poetry. She has even written some in french. I was so impressed.

Another classmate of mine is from Columbia. He moved here at the beginning of the year and has some distant family here, but basically decided to move away from his intermediate family and try the french life. He really speaks great and just started when he arrived! Between him and a girl from Argentina, they are so impressive in how quick they pick up everything and the maturity they show (they're 18-19 yrs old). Seeing them do so well, along with others, has been a huge motivation for me and gives me confidence that it can be done.

My semester is about over as I have finals next week that will show me how well I have actually progressed. They don't mean a ton, but if failed, I have to take another test to prove I should move to the next level in January. I'm pretty confident that I'll get more than the minimum necessary but I'm excited to prove to myself that I have, in fact, learned a lot.

Luckily for me, I'll have another semester here with many of the same classmates returning. People from Ghana, China, Korea, Japan, South America (sorry to lump them all together), New Zealand, Eastern Europe, the Middle East, etc. It really shows you that, yes, it is in fact a large world but still many of us came together unknowingly and for different reasons to learn a foreign language and a foreign culture together. I will continue to learn from them and provide them with a positive example of what Americans are like. I have put in a lot of work to find a home here and the past month or so, with my language improving, I have started to feel truly grateful for the opportunity that lies ahead of me.

Un Tour à Tours!

15th century Cathedrale

This past weekend I set my sails down the Loire river and visited a city called Tours. Can't exactly say why I had chosen this city as it is not a huge tourist destination, inhabiting only about 150,000 people. The Loire Valley has a lot of chateaux that really are magnificent, but I was only able to see them online as its necessary to have a car or take a bus tour to visit them. I didn't let that fully distract me from my objective as I left Saturday morning and returned only Sunday night. I've been traveling using this carpooling website that allows me to search for rides to and from places. Its really quite easy to use and not only saves money, but allows me to meet frenchies and work on my social skills (lots of work to do there).

Inside the cathedral.

So I arrived ready to spend a weekend alone in a city I knew nothing about. One of my rising interests is French history and thanks to a class that I have, I am learning how occurrences from over 2000 years ago have an impact on culture here now. This gothic style cathedrale is only from the 15th century (only, haha) and it really was impressive to stand alongside. I found myself to be one of the only tourists this weekend as France finally left its summer weather and found cold, rainy and foggy weather to be a daily occurrence. This may have allowed me to have access to better photos.

Chateau de Tours

Although I am hoping one day to blog about some real grand chateaux, for now I have the meager one shown here. Chateaux (x makes it plural) became popular in France during the Renaissance period (16th century) when the French were battling the Italians and found out how nice looking their Castles were and decided that they would try to be pretty as well. This area is between Nantes and Paris and since the English had been occupying Paris (100 years war), the French royalties resided here and then remade all the castles into chateaux (ok so chateau is castle in french, but they turned the chateau fort into chateau, voila).

Place Nationale (lots of shopping)

Place Plumereau (Medieval buildings)

So I made my tour based of sites I found online and just a broad curiousity to see the structure of the city and how it compares to others that I've seen. Another aspect of cities that I'm discovering is the proudness they have in their parks. Nantes has a great 'Jardin des Plantes' and Tours had one that I was very happy to have spent time in. They had animals, plants, and flowers from all over the world. Some giant redwoods from northwestern USA, wallabies from Australia, Emu from somewhere, etc.

Jardin Botanique

By the time I left Sunday, I was really happy with what I had gotten to see. I did however have to lecture myself on taking more care of where I stay. I picked perhaps the worst location for a hotel. I found a cheap one online but didn't realize the journey I'd have to take to get there. It didn't do much harm though and maybe staying where it was warm to relax my legs did some good. I definitely appreciate the journey and the experience and I look forward to my future destinations!

Palais de Justice (left), Hotel de Ville (right)

Continuez!

Ok bloggy,

Flags starting from the top: France, Bretagne, European Union

Just thought I'd start by pointing out that I currently am holding four different cheeses in my fridge right now. I'm sure some may be shaking their heads like, what a baffoun! But just remember, baffoun is a french word so settle down! To those whom are curious, I'm guessing there are many out there :) but they are swiss cheese, stinky cheeses, and a goat cheese that I bought wrapped in a leaf. Very pretty and I'm gonna be sure to take a picture next time. I also have a basket full of vegetables from the jardin of Elodie's parents. Potatoes, zucchini, tomatoes, grapes, etc. So cool. I hope one day to have my own garden and my own cows to milk and make cheese from (ok im cool with just the garden).

Other notables I currently have that are french and will become staples in my kitchen include but are not limited to: Muscadet (a dry white wine made around Nantes), red wine (usually from Bordeaux), rosette (salted pork, thank you Gimli), baguettes (duh), music from Yannick Noah in the air (yes, father of Joakim), perrier, cocacola (for those who know the joke!). But that basically sums it up. Im sure the chicken I buy is from a poulet francais but lets not go into unnecessary details...

Attempting to do 'planche a voile' 

On the right you can see the talented me, trying to sail board (?) its called the planche a voile so you can translate it if you care. But we all had fun. its Alain, Elodie's dad, on the left, with me, Elodie, Kevin, her brother, and Jean Michel, her uncle. We all tried really hard! haha. Elodie was the second best to the veteran Jean Michel. But it was a great weekend in Sarzeau and the Atlantic Ocean!

Alessandrini's free kick

The Frenchman, Romain Alessandrini, on the left is taking a free kick against FC Nantes in what was coined as a derby between Stade Rennais (where Elodie is from) and FC Nantes (Where I go to school, 1 hour away). I had a first row seat to the game at a discounted price since Im a student. Super cheap, so take that Chicago Bears! It was a great game and I was cheering for Rennes, but wasnt terribly upset at the Nantes victory 3-1. 

All in all, the french life is pretty exciting and new still. Six weeks into this 'aventure' and I'm surprised at how the time continues to fly. I am taking 18 hours of french courses and I'm seeing a real progress and it only makes me more eager to do more, read more, and talk more. My classmates are from all over the world and I've met only one other American. People from China, Ghana, South America, Eastern Europe, and more. I have to remind myself where I am and whom I am talking to sometimes because it truly is unimaginable from having grown up in the Iowan countryside. 

I often think about the time when I had studied in Belfast all those years ago and the comparisons to today. For example, when I went to Northern Ireland, it was the first time I had ever flown. I was 20 years old and never really left Iowa and although they speak english there, it seemed so foreign. Now, I might consider myself somewhat seasoned of a traveller but once again in a very foreign land. In fact, they dont speak much english here at all. Its all french, hard to believe I know! But I have my girl here and also her family, who goes out of their way to take care of me, something for which I will be forever grateful. All in all, Im so excited to continue my stories, to find new things to learn, and also to dive deeper into what I've already begun. I hope you all are willing to be in on this adventure too!

Le Premier

Dearest blog,

I know I have been away from the beautiful American land and its people for nearly a month now, but
if you don't appreciate my first entry as tardy, then just realize it has been over 27 years since I could have written to you :/ I can't say yet how long this courtship may last between me and you, between me and France, nor between me and this Earth, but I will do my best to be faithful and honest during the process.

To begin, it seems important to discuss the new beginnings I have placed myself in. The city is Nantes and is located here:

It used to call itself the capital of Brittany, the northwest department of France, but now resides in the Loire-Atlantique department. However, I have come to realize that it holds many of the Breton values near to its heart. Food and meals have really grown to be important to me even since my first visit to France. Dinners can last for hours. They often begin with an 'aperatif' or apero. Simply put, this is when you have a nice glass of white wine, Ricard (a french liquor), or your drink of choice, and also a snack or two (perhaps snails are served to the peoples delight... or dislike). Then you will have the entree, which is usually a salad, some salted meat with bread, or anything delicious. Following we have the main plate. Sausages are great and very popular all over France. Several regions are famous for their sausages, for example, Toulouse. Also you can have steak hachees, aka hamburgers for you Americans ;) Apres le plat on va manger le fromage. Oh sorry, forgot we were speaking in English. Ok, so we have the beautiful and delicious cheeses after the main dish.

Raclette :D (raclette cheese with saucisson et potates)

The stinkier the better I'm starting to learn. Also if you are not sure, it is best to ask if you can eat the rind for it may be regretted if you don't...  From soft cheeses to gruyeres to goat cheese covered in ashes (thank you Katie :) ) I am happy to be developing a knowledge and love of cheese. The French are deservingly proud of their culture and cheese is most definitely a part of that. Now for many peoples favorite part, you have a dessert. Desserts are pretty common all over the world and hopefully we have all left room for them. Not every meal will be this long, but when on holiday or just because you have the time, its nice to spend it enjoying great food and hopefully the company is just as nice! :D

In Bretagne, they have fabulous crepes and galletes (the version of crepes served with meats and cheeses) along with their seafood and the beautiful coastal area (must see: castle of Saint-Malo and Le Mont San Michel).

The cities are old and have held their Breton heritage proudly. Even many coastal towns still teach the Breton language. French chateaux are apparently as numerous as their are astonishing, as shown here in Nantes with the Chateau de ducs de Bretagne.



It is interesting to think about and to recall the process that I have gone through to begin my life in France. It seems simple enough to do things like open a bank account, get a phone and internet for your appartement, and things like that. Elo is so terribly organized and has been my savior these past few weeks. The whole Busnel family is a great pleasure to be with. I really feel like I have a french family and I know that when I need a taste of home, I can visit them and spend the holidays with them to be ok. They have truly taken care of me. Now that I have started my classes and am without them and Elo during the weeks, I feel much more confident and at ease than I thought possible.

Busnel kids with JP (bottum left) and me!

To end the beginning of what I should hope to be a fruitful friendship, I want to say thanks for reading! Ill be sure to fill in some details missed here and more and more pictures will come :) I miss all my family and friends but it is with their strength that I can hope to make this experience lasting!!